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Ancient Ladder
Gonfalon in the Quarter of Santo Spirito Streetwise itineraries
between the Ponte Vecchio & the Porta San Niccolo'
Ever since 1343
Florence has been divided into four political-administrate sectors
called Quarters: San Giovanni, Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella
and Santo Spirito, subdivided in turn into Gonfalons.
Most of what is now the rione or district of San
Niccolò in Oltrarno was included in the Scala Gonfalon.
The boundaries were the Arno
River, between the Ponte Vecchio and the Porta San Niccolò (St.
Nicholas Gate), the stretch of Arnolfo's old city walls between
this gate, the Porta San Miniato and the Porta San Giorgio,
Costa di San Giorgio down to Piazza Santa Felicita and the first
stretch of Via Guicciardini as far as the Ponte Vecchio. The
parishes of the Scala Gonfalon, of considerable administrative
importance, were Santa Maria Soprarno (eliminated some time
ago), part of Santa Felicita, Santa Lucia de' Magnoli, San Niccolò
and San Giorgio alla Costa.
With the Ponte Vecchio
as your point of departure, walk in the direction of Via Guicciardini,
to the delightful Piazza Santa Felicita, particularly lively
in summer with outdoor refreshment tables.
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Via de' Bardi.Palazzo Capponi
delle Rovinate.
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The church of Santa Felicita, built on the site
of a late 4th century early Christian basilica, was frequently
rebuilt and eventually became the church for the Medici and the
House of Lorraine. Members of the family took part in the religious
services from the "coretto" or private chapel in Vasari's Corridor,
set over the portico on the facade. The architectural clarity
of the church today is the result of Fernando Ruggeri's remodeling
of 1736. The Capponi family chapel, the first one on the right,
was frescoed between 1525 and 1528 by the great Mannerist painter
Pontormo with a Deposition that is a triumph of metaphysical light
and vivid colors.
From Piazza dei Rossi, alongside the church, continue up to Costa
San Giorgio and then descend the steep Rampa delle Coste, to Piazza
di Santa Maria Soprarno, across the river from the Uffizi palace.
The imposing Palazzo Tempi, now Bargagli Petrucci, that stands
here was built around the end of the 16th century and renovated
inside in various periods. |
As you continue along the old stretch of
Via de' Bardi, with your back to Ponte Vecchio, you are
following in the footsteps of Beatrice, Dante's idealized
love, who married Simone de' Bardi. On the left (at No.36)
is the Palazzo Capponi delle Rovinate, so-called because
of the landslides of the hill (rovinate means collapsed
or hurtling down). On the wall across from the palazzo a
plaque of 1565 refers to the prohibition to build anything
more on that side of the street.
Built for Niccolò da Uzzano, an outstanding member of the
early 15th century Florentine oligarchy, the courtyard seems
to be an early work by Brunelleschi (although Vasari mentions
a project by Lorenzo di Bicci). In any case the courtyard
is considered one of the first examples of Renaissance architecture.
No doubts exist however about the identity of the architect
of the facade facing onto Lungarno Torrigiani, which was
designed between 1872 and 1878 by Giuseppe Poggi.
Further on (at No. 30) is the 15th century Palazzo Larioni
de' Bardi, which tradition says was built by Michelozzo.
In the courtyard, at the foot of the staircase, is a statue
attributed to a Dalmatian sculptor in the circle of Michelozzo.
The palazzo stretches out up to the next street number,
and then becomes Palazzo Canigiani. This portion of the
building was rebuilt around 1838 by the Marquis Tommaso
Canigiani de' Cerchi, and is one of the most interesting
examples of Florentine neoclassic architecture. |
S. Lucia de' Magnoli, detail of the
façade.
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Panorama from Costa Scarpuccia.
Porta S.Giorgio.
Costa de' Magnoli.
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The church of Santa Lucia de' Magnoli stands
next to this palace. Originally a hospice for pilgrims
managed by the ecclesiastical congregation of Cluny, it
became a parish church sometime in the late 14th century.
Included among its guests was St. Francis of Assisi, whose
brief stay in 1211 is mentioned in a plaque on the wall
opposite the church. Inside are works by Jacopo del Sellaio,
Ambrogio Lorenzetti and other artists; Niccolò da Uzzano,
who died in 1432, is buried at the foot of the high altar.
One of the most important panel paintings by Domenico
Veneziano, the Saint Lucy Altarpiece, now in the Uffizi,
came from here. The church was rebuilt in its present
form in 1732 and also has a chapel which is precisely
the same size as the "Holy House of the Virgin" in the
cathedral of Loreto.
On the corner, a bit further on, is a unique
tabernacle with "the smallest art gallery in the world".
Turning right, we climb up Costa Scarpuccia as far as
the church of San Giorgio or "of the Holy Spirit", now
the Romanian Orthodox Church. Rebuilt in its present form
in the early 18th century by Giovan Battista Foggini,
it houses works by Foggini, by Alessandro Gherardini,
Vincenzo Dandini and Passignano. On the right of the church
is the entrance to the former convent, now army barracks.
If you wish to continue to Forte Belvedere, Via San Leonardo
and Arcetri will take you to itinerary A.
The best way to return towards Via de' Bardi, is to take
the down stretch of Costa de' Magnoli, passing through
a small arch and down a few steps, to Via del Canneto,
one of the truly authentic corners of old Florence. From
Costa Scarpuccia continue along Via de' Bardi: on the
right is the 13th century Palazzo de' Mozzi, with a vast
park behind which stretches up to the old walls at the
top of the hill. Turn left for the Bardini Museum, built
by the antiquarian Stefano Bardini for his collections
and then donated to the City of Florence. Among others,
the museum contains sculpture and paintings by Tino di
Camaino, Donatello, Antonio del Pollaiolo, Tintoretto
and Tiepolo, as well as numerous examples of goldsmith
work, furniture, musical instruments, arms and armor and
carpets.
Opposite is the Palazzo Torrigiani - Del Nero, built by
Baccio d'Agnolo around the middle of the 16th century,
of which a good view can be had from the Torrigiani Gardens,
on the Lungarno of the same name. |
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Continue along Via San Niccolò with its pure geometrical
elegance. Imposing palazzi of the old Florentine aristocratic
families line both sides, housing numerous important artisan
workshops. The parish church of San Niccolò in Oltrarno still
has its original Gothic structures inside, with side altars
in the style of Vasari. In the sacristy, a 15th century shrine
attributed to Michelozzo frames a fine fresco of the same period.
Among the other works in the church, some salvaged after the
flood of 1966, are numerous paintings by Poppi, Empoli, Taddeo
di Bartolo. Of interest too is the Romanesque crypt, currently
visible by going down a few steps in the adjacent wine cellar.
After leaving the church, continue to Arnolfo's Porta di San
Miniato on the right, the heart of the San Niccolò district.
The gate, carried off by the flood of 1966, was then restored
and has recently been put back in place. This corner of Florence,
celebrated by artists and writers, is one of the most popular
meeting places, especially in summer.
Pass beyond the Porta di San Miniato and climb
the steep slope to reach the churches of San Salvatore al Monte
and San Miniato following itinerary B.
The last stretch of Via San Niccolò is characterized
by a series of buildings which furnish an excellent idea of
what the old houses of the Florentine "popolo minuto", or working
classes, looked like.
At the end of the street stands the massive 14th century gateway
or Porta di San Niccolò which overlooks Piazza Giuseppe Poggi.
Attributed to Andrea Orcagna, it still has its original tower
of 1327 and was the only one not to be "cut down" during the
siege of Florence in 1529. It was later restored and left as
a monument in the middle of the new square designed by the architect
after whom it is named. A large stela by Giò Pomodoro (1997)
pays homage to Galileo Galilei, the great scientist and astronomer.
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Via del Canneto.
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From Piazza Poggi continue up the flights of steps of
San Niccolò, and itinerary C takes you straight to Piazzale
Michelangolo.
On the banks of the Arno, in the park on the site of the old
mills, stands the Friendship Stela, created by Galeazzo Auzzi
in 1976 in remembrance of the "Angels of mud", those young people
who were volunteers in helping the city dig itself out after
the flood of November 4, 1966.
Go back towards the Ponte Vecchio along Lungarno Serristori.
Casa Siviero, once the residence of the plenipotentiary minister
Rodolfo Siviero, charged with recovering the works of art stolen
during World War II, stands at the beginning of the Lungarno
and has been opened to the public. The small building designed
by Poggi is managed by the Association of Friends of Florentine
Museums, and contains an interesting collection of paintings,
furnishings of various kinds, and objects of great artistic
value.
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The next stop is Piazza Demidoff. The monument
in the center of the square is by Lorenzo Bartolini (1870) and
honors the eminent Russian noble Nicola Demidoff, who left his
mark in the history of Florence and in particular that of San
Niccolò in the 19th century. Overlooking the Arno and the piazza
is Palazzo Serristori, where famous personages such as Jérôme
and Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon's brothers, sojourned.
In Via de' Renai, on the lowest side of the square, is the coffee
bar of the famous film Amici Miei.
Continue along Lungarno Serristori, and turn into Lungarno Torrigiani
at the Ponte alle Grazie. The park here was opened to the public
at the end of the 19th century and in the early 1900s the Evangelical
Lutheran church was built here in neoclassic Venetian style.
We
suggest that you walk along all of Lungarno Torrigiani and the
more recent stretch of Via de' Bardi, rebuilt after World War
II. In returning to the point of departure of your walk, a picture
of the very heart of the old city and of Ponte Vecchio, which
has marked the history of Florence throughout the centuries,
will keep you company.
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a room in the Museo Bardini.
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Itinerary
A: Fort Belvedere, Via San Leonardo and Arcetri.
As you climb up once more on your left along Costa San Giorgio
you will pass in front of the house (nos. 17/19) which once belonged
to Galileo. After the old Porta San Giorgio, continue up for a
fine view of Florence from the ramparts of the Forte Belvedere,
built by Bernardo Buontalenti at the end of the 16th century for
Ferdinando I de' Medici.
Continue into the countryside along the narrow and enchanting
Via San Leonardo, which offers one of the loveliest walks outside
the city gates, between the "walled" city and the pleasant hills
around. The Florentine headquarters of John Hopkins University,
the church of San Matteo in Arcetri, the studio of the famous
Florentine painter Ottone Rosai and the Florentine house of Pyotr
Ilich Tchaikovsky are all located along Via San Leonardo. Upon
reaching Viale dei Colli, a right turn takes you towards Piazzale
Galileo with the monument to Daniele Manin, hero of the Italian
Risorgimento, while, turning left, a walk along Viale Galileo
leads to the Basilica of S. Miniato al Monte and Piazzale Michelangelo.
Continuing straight along Via S. Leonardo, takes you up between
enclosed walls and fine groups of houses to Arcetri, where Galileo
Galilei died. |
Itinerary B: San Salvatore al Monte and San Miniato.
Admiring the ancient walls built to protect the quarter
of San Niccolò, climb up along the staircase marked by the
Stations of the Cross to the top of the "Monte fiorentino".
Mentioned by Dante, this site is connected to St. John Gualberto,
founder of the Vallombrosan monastic order, who along the
road spared the life of the man who killed his brother.
A tabernacle is set to commemorate the event.
After crossing the boulevard at the beginning of Piazzale
Michelangelo, you reach the Franciscan church of San Salvatore,
known as "al Monte alle Croci", a masterpiece of Renaissance
architecture. We continue on towards the cemetery of the
Porte Sante and the basilica of San Miniato al Monte, the
most striking example of Florentine Romanesque. The panorama
from the church square is unforgettable. |
the monument to Nicola Demidoff.
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 Itinerary C: the Rampe and Piazzale Michelangelo.
From Piazza Giuseppe Poggi climb up towards Piazzale Michelangelo
along the Rampe, the flights of steps designed by the same architect
who completely transformed the hill between 1867 and 1876, when
Florence was the capital of Italy. The scenic system of structures
supports the spacious terrace of Piazzale Michelangelo and consolidates
the slopes of the hill of San Miniato. Wandering around from basins
to fountains, pausing in the shade of age-old trees, the varied
panorama of Florence opens out below in all its splendor. The
monument erected to Michelangelo, a must for every tourist, stands
at the center of the Piazzale, dominating the city and the surrounding
hills.
All those on their way to Piazzale Michelangelo or Forte Belvedere
for the marvelous views of the city these sites afford, pass through
San Niccolò, that part of the city which flanks the left bank
of the Arno, on the slopes of the hills of San Miniato and Arcetri.
This itinerary is an invitation to the tourist about to climb
up the steep slope of Costa San Giorgio or the harmonious 19th
century flights of steps of the Rampe to pause for a while in
the streets and squares of San Niccolò. They will be rewarded
with an artistic ensemble of outstanding monuments, still for
the most part little known, and nooks and corners of a cross section
of the oldest and most authentic Florence.
This suggestion also holds for the Florentines who, just for once,
should forget they are in a hurry, and turn their eyes to palaces,
monuments, works of art which have every right to be included
in the extraordinary patrimony of the city. |
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